VSThe industry is hungry for neologisms, such as “maskné” and “skinmalisme”, or terms taken from other lexical fields, such as “microbiota” and “epigenetics”. According to analyst firm Zion Market Research, the global cosmetics market is expected to weigh $ 863 billion by 2024, which is how competitive the sector is and spends its time tracking down new needs and social phenomena to offer tailored products. ” It is an area linked to pleasure that must be renewed to always seduce. Hence the need for marketing and development departments to create words and lexical fields around products. These terms need to be meaningful, easily transferable via hashtags, and catchy quickly because brands average three seconds to grab an internet user’s attention. “, Explains Audrey Roulin, beauty director of the Nelly Rodi trend cabinet. This is called the marketing jargon name Where formulation, with a slew of companies specialized in creating neologisms that brands can register and then use exclusively to stand out from the competition. The advantage: find internationally understandable terms to avoid the headache when exporting. ” Cosmetics last an average of two or three months, and when the consumer has to buy a cream or a serum, they often want to try new things. But since there are no innovations every month in style, the invention of formulations allows us to give the public the idea of novelty observes cosmetologist Sophie Strobel. Overview of the alphabet of the moment§
Skinmalism
Maximum purity
A contraction of “skin” and “minimalism,” this neologism popularized by the inspirational platform Pinterest is to beauty what Scandinavian purity is to design. A simplified daily routine and products with packaging as clear as their names. The trend is at odds with the success of K-Beauty e layering, this trend comes from Korea which particularly recommends a face care ritual in ten steps, morning and evening. “It is a minimalist trend that goes against the escalation of products, the creation of new gestures, new tools that make care more complex. Fewer steps, shorter formulas, and more traditional ingredients like vitamin C and retinol. A way to reassure consumers in the face of Yuka-like applications and alarmist talk about cosmetics. The success of skinmalism is also explained by the environmental dimension as it favors the decrease by rejecting the excessive supply of packaging »Analyzes Sophie Strobel. In beauty as elsewhere, less is more.
Epigenetics
In the skin
It’s a word for how our genes express themselves. It is also the name of one of the Parisian places that has attracted beauty enthusiasts since its opening last March. The starting postulate of the Epigenetic House? 85% of our DNA develops according to the way we live, so it would be possible to influence biological age by changing our habits. Nestled in a private mansion with highly instagrammable contemporary décor, this Parisian place strives to measure the latter based on skin conditions, sleep quality, arteries, a blood test … and then offers protocols for several weeks to improve it by transforming its way of life. On the menu, tailor-made programs, lasers to repair skin blemishes, cryolipolysis to remove swellings, microneedling, phototherapy, a gym with machines designed by NASA … But you can also simply make an appointment You have an anti-aging treatment signed by the cutting-edge brand Augustinus Bader, whose cosmetics aim to awaken stem cells to regenerate the skin. A place that reveals the current enthusiasm for a medical and holistic approach to beauty.
In practice: different programs depending on the profile, € 80 for the first consultation to take stock, € 200 for the facial treatment, maisonepigenetic.com
microbiota
Small but strong
The cosmetic industry had already integrated probiotics and prebiotics, here is the era of the microbiota, that is of all the microorganisms that live in the intestine, mouth, skin … It must be said that, given the success of the book Giulia Enders The discreet charm of the intestine (Actes Sud) – over 1.2 million copies sold in France – bacteria no longer have such a negative press. There is even talk of protecting its bacterial flora. ” After the discovery of these thousands of microbes on the skin in the late 2000s, studies first showed the role of the skin microbiome in children’s eczema and then how its rebalancing could cure seizure episodes. This is what led to the creation by the L’Oréal group of a research center dedicated to the microbiome in 2012. “Explains his manager, biologist Luc Aguilar. This shows how much the French group is betting on it. Research on the subject has already led to the launch of a balancing serum called Advanced Génifique from Lancôme and an eczema care product from La Roche-Posay. ” Each brand specifically targets their consumers to explain these new words with pedagogy, to provide solid information while making them popular. We don’t talk about the microbiome in the same way in La Roche-Posay and Lancôme. If the approach remains scientific in both cases, the discourse of the first revolves around health, that of the second around beauty “, Continues the scientist.
In practice: Lipikar Eczema Med, La Roche-Posay, € 18. Advanced Génifique Serum, Lancôme, € 84.50 per 30 ml at lancome.fr
Ashwagandha
Superhero
Even if its name seems unpronounceable (achvaganda if you want to shine in dinners – vegans – in the city), it is the protagonist of adaptogenic plants, among which there are also astragalus, reishi or even schisandra. Always used in Asia, these plants, known for their superpowers, have been growing for some years in Anglo-Saxon countries. Driven by the growing enthusiasm for traditional medicines but also by the pandemic that has weakened our balance, these grandmother’s remedies imported from other continents are currently being developed in Europe. ” Adaptogenic plants are considered the Rolls of phytotherapy because they are balancing, non-toxic, non-addictive and their multiple effects help the body to better resist stress. They have been used in traditional Chinese, Indian, and Native American medicine for years. observes Ehsane Cassam-Chenaï, founder of Hygée, whose food supplements with evocative names (Energy, Immunity) are composed of adaptogenic plants. The best seller? “Serenity” with ashwagandha with de-stressing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. ” If we had to mention only one adaptogenic plant, it would be this, says Ehsane Cassam-Chenai. It is a root that grows in India, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. Traditionally it is dried and then ground to be used in decoction or powder. It acts on anxiety but also on energy helping the body to regain momentum and vigor when it is overloaded. “A good omen in these times.
In practice: La Sérénité, € 33 for 42 g, hygee.co
masked
Air !
Born with the pandemic, this fusion of the words “mask” and “acne” qualifies this skin condition due to the prolonged use of the mask. A planetary phenomenon that sees friction, heat and sweat droplets cause skin irritation, blackheads and pimples where the mask sticks to the skin. ” This is called a password, a short word, easily understood, whatever the language, and that speaks to many of us. Its popularity can be explained in particular by the weight of today’s digital technology. Social networks play a key role in spreading this type of term observes Audrey Roulin. A neologism that has not escaped the brands. While the Australians of Silvi market Bye Bye Maskne, a 99% antibacterial silk mask sold for € 18, the Koreans of Masque BAR have launched the EPI Hydrogel Shield & Soothe mask based on hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and calendula to hydrate the skin, protect it from rubbing and reduce blemishes. A mask to wear under the mask§
In practice: Bye Bye Maskne € 18 on au.mysilvi.com. BAR mask “The mask under the mask”, € 3.99 each. on monoprix.fr
Getty Images – HYGEE – Alamy Stock Photo