“Women claim the codes of sexy” (Cécile Vivier – Salon de la Lingerie)

(ETX Daily Up) – After an absence of two years, the Salon International de la Lingerie returns to Paris – Porte de Versailles, from 18 to 20 June, to unveil the latest collections and news in swimwear and lingerie . On the eve of the kick-off of the event, Cécile Vivier, Marketing Director of the Salone, retraces the consequences of the pandemic on these two sectors and decodes the trends that will soon invade your closets. Interview.

The Salon International de la Lingerie is back in physical shape after two years of pandemic. How are you approaching this edition?
This new edition will take place under the corner of the meeting. We are all very happy to reconnect with the physical because this did not happen since January 2020. This Show is held exceptionally in June following the postponement of last January, a period marked by a surge in cases, by the emergence of new variants, and above all the travel ban. You should know that the Salon International de la Lingerie has more than 70% international visitors, so it was impossible for us to keep it. We will finally be able to open our doors to visitors and exhibitors so that they can talk, see the products, touch the materials.

However, digital has replaced the physical during the health crisis. Wasn’t that enough?
We have effectively replaced our physical editions very quickly with digital editions, but mainly to continue to animate the community. For businesses, the results were not necessarily conclusive. Shapes, colors and materials are not distinguished in the same way as physics. The notion of touch is very important in the fashion industry; which is binding at a distance. But these digital editions still allowed us to continue to feed our communities, exhibitors and visitors, with market information or lectures on trends, and this has been a success in the sense that we have maintained permanent contact.

According to many studies, the pandemic would have been fatal for the bra, what is it really about?
There was already a great “no bra” phenomenon before the first lockdown, and there was already a lot of talk about comfort, easy-to-wear garments, one size fits all, both in lingerie and swimsuits. The liberation of the female body, and the positive body, do not necessarily go back to the pandemic, although it has amplified the phenomenon. There was indeed an impact on the consumption of bras. Everything was brought about by a very present neofeminism in lingerie, which today translates into a sexy look and silhouette, but always in a spirit of emancipation. Women want to enjoy their body from every angle, because it is becoming a means of expression again. Even the lingerie will be very sexy, with the return of the thong and low-cut shapes.

Should we expect the end of “convenience”?
Not necessarily, because today’s women have gained this comfort, they have acquired it. But women’s sexuality has been desacralized, it is no longer a taboo. Somehow they got rid of it. We see it on social media, we no longer count the number of accounts that deal with topics such as masturbation, female pleasure and menstruation, because it is now normal to talk about it. And this translates into a return to sensuality and the desire to seduce. We can also speak of the return of unbridled sexuality of the 2000s, except that at the time these codes referred to the archetype of the woman-object, entirely devoted to male pleasure. Twenty years later, it no longer has the same meaning. Women claim the codes of sexy, but only for them.

Menstrual panties and swimwear are a hit, but they are always made by specialist brands. Do consumer brands intend to democratize these lingerie items?
This phenomenon has indeed arrived from the young creation, but is gradually taken up by the major brands of lingerie and swimwear. We have some figures: 8% of French women bought menstrual panties during the year and their sales reached a total of 10.8 million euros. Among these users, most plan to turn solely to menstrual panties for protection. It is a growing phenomenon, and the big lingerie brands, such as Chantelle and Simone Pérèle, have already entered this niche, even if they have not made it the subject of communication. But the young creation actually continues to carry this trend, and also goes into other niches, such as incontinence. These young brands are broadening their spectrum around wellness and want to accompany the evolution of the female body at all ages.

Can we talk about lingerie without taboos today?
Sure. It is a lingerie without taboos, for everyone, in complete freedom, when you want and where you want!

What are the latest innovations in the field of eco-responsibility?
There will obviously be a lot of them at the show. Eco-responsibility is no longer a topic, it is a prerequisite for consumers. Eco-responsible, recycled or biodegradable materials, but also all questions about traceability, transparency and packaging are essential and the actors in the lingerie sector are aware of this. There are tons of innovations regarding lace, cottons, accessories, etc. We know despite everything that there is still a lot of progress to be made in the textile sector, especially on dyes, but eco-responsibility is now an integral part of the Salon de la Lingerie, as are the concerns of brands.

Lingerie is the only clothing category that cannot be resold second hand or donated. What are the solutions to limit waste?
The second hand is a real subject in lingerie and swimwear. There are more and more initiatives that consist of taking back bathing suits and personalizing them to create new pieces. Even in lingerie, brands are starting to repair products. We are making new from the old and it could be a second hand solution. The Ysé brand, for example, recovers swimwear, has them embroidered, washed and resells them, proving that it is possible.

Finally, the trends of tomorrow are synonymous with freedom, sensuality, functionality and durability. Can we really do sexy rhyme, menstrual panties and eco-responsibility today?
We can rhyme menstrual panties and eco-responsibility, but also sexy and eco-responsibility… Maybe it’s a little more difficult for menstrual and sexy panties. But brands are starting to offer different things with prints, shapes, shorty … To make the three outfits rhyme, I think brands will create and show imagination. It’s probably just a matter of time.

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